Naples means business when it comes to nativity scenes, which are called presepe (singlular) or presepi (plural). Hands down, the epicenter of activity is Via San Gregorio Armeno, a tiny vicoletto – narrow Neapolitan street. Chock-full of artisans and tiny merchant shops, the vendors sell beautiful sets, figurines and handmade materials for families to make their own scenes.
Nativity scenes are a treasured tradition in all of Italy. However, the type of nativity scene in Naples known as a presepe Napolitano is well-known throughout the country for its intricacy and over-the-top-ness! Did we just invent a word?
So, read on to find our more about their history and how to get your hands on your own when visiting the city.
The Neapolitan Nativity or “Presepe”
A brief history
The name presepe comes from the Italian word for crib or manger.
The origins of nativity scenes stem back to the times of Saint Francis of Assisi, who is documented as the first person to organize a live re-enactment of the birth of Christ. In the Naples area, the first documented instance of a Nativity scene was in Amalfi in 1324, where figurines were set up in a private chapel. The practice started gaining popularity in the 1600’s, when artisans used terracotta and paper-maché techniques to sculpt both life size and small figures.
The tradition of the Neapolitan presepe really took off in the 1700’s. During this era, the tradition took on the drama of the Baroque period as noble families constructed more and more complex presepi. These families created elaborate mini cityscapes as they sought to outdo one another. This is why a Neapolitan presepe is different from a traditional nativity scene with the principal characters surrounding baby Jesus, as there will also be an abundance of everyday characters too.
Hidden symbolism and common figures
Presepi are everywhere in Naples during the winter months in both the private and public sphere. Most families have their own presepe at home and churches and public places display larger and more elaborate ones. Whatever the size, all presepi share some aspects in common.
Although it can look random, the Neapolitan presepe bursts with symbolism. You’ll see baby Jesus and Virgin Mary, of course! But keep an eye out for the various merchants and townspeople that hold their own symbolism. There are the hunters and fishermen that symbolize life and death, for example. There is also one type of merchant for each month, the butcher represents January, the baker represents June, and so on.
Insider’s Tip: When you visit Via San Gregorio Armeno, don’t be afraid to speak with the shopkeepers about their figurines and the wealth of meanings they carry. Naples is full of superstitions and symbolism, and the presepi are no different!
The figurines are sometimes known as pastori, or shepherds. But as you’ll see, the Neapolitan presepe goes way beyond mere shepherds to create a living city scene that blends the old with the new. Nowadays, Neapolitans even make statuettes of popular figures like football players, singers, and world leaders. There are also animatronic pieces that move, like a pizza maker taking a pizza out of the oven!
Where to see presepi in Naples
During Christmastime
To see the magic of presepi yourself, head to the artisan center of Via San Gregorio Armeno. Tourists and locals alike pack the tiny street to check out the presepe materials available in the charming shops. Make sure to explore the surrounding vicoletti (small streets) as well, as that whole area is full of artisans.
It’s hard to put together a list of presepi to see in Naples because they are almost literally everywhere during the Christmas season. Most pizzerias, trattorias, and restaurants will have their own presepe, often quite elaborate. And of course, every church will have its own nativity scene. Our advice is to go out as much as possible and keep your eyes open!
Year-round
There are some notable presepi in the city that can be viewed year round.
One of the most well-known is within the Certosa e Museo di San Martino. This hilltop museum offers not only panoramic views of the Bay of Naples but also an extraordinary journey through Neapolitan art, culture, and craftsmanship. Originally a 14th-century Carthusian monastery, the complex now houses one of Italy’s most impressive collections of nativity scenes, including the famous Cucinello Presepe. This presepe is a sprawling 18th-century masterpiece with hundreds of detailed figurines. Visitors can also explore stunning cloisters, frescoed halls, and galleries filled with paintings, sculptures, and historic artifacts that tell the rich story of Naples through the ages.
Another presepe of epic proportions can be found in the cloisters of Santa Chiara (Via Santa Chiara, 49/C) in the historical center. The cloisters themselves are a beautiful refuge from the bustling streets of the center and the massive 18th century presepe is the cherry on top.
Insider’s Tip: Visitors year-round can get a taste of the Christmas spirit right in the Central Station of Naples. If you’re taking trains into or out of Naples, keep an eye out for the large presepe in a glass case near the front entrance. It’s hard to miss!
Practical tips for a winter presepe tour in Naples
So you’ve decided to visit Naples in winter? There are some practical tips to keep in mind.
- It rains a lot, so make sure you pack rain gear or an umbrella.
- To see presepe and get the Christmas vibe of Naples in general, the best advice is to wander. Look out for luminarie in almost every piazza. Luminarie are massive twinkling light sculptures of objects like Christmas trees and Santa’s sleigh.
- If you want to get out of the center of the city, there are other ways to enjoy the Christmas spirit of the city. There are plenty of things to do in the neighborhood of Vomero. This is up the hill and has various Christmas markets on Via Scarlatti and Via Luca Giordano. The historical train museum of Pietrarsa also has an awesome winter market perfect for families.
- If you want a starting point for your Christmas tour, seeing the artisans in Via San Gregorio Armeno is a great way to take in the presepe culture. Be warned that it really does get packed in December, though! For a less chaotic experience, check it out in November or January, when the Christmas fever is not at its peak.
FAQ´s – Presepe traditions at Christmas
What are the opening hours of the shops on Via San Gregorio Armeno?
Most of the artisan workshops and shops along Via San Gregorio Armeno remain open year-round, including outside the Christmas season. Typical opening hours during the day are around 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., though this can vary among different shops. Sundays are generally acceptable for visiting too, but since many shops are small and family-run, it’s wise to go earlier in the day rather than late afternoon.
What price range should I expect when buying a presepe, or pastori figurines in Naples?
Prices for the Neapolitan nativity scene (presepe) and figurines (pastori) and accessories vary widely. Simple figurines may start from a few tens of euros, while elaborate full sets—including detailed accessories and scenes—can command prices of several hundred to several thousand euros.
However, complete sets can start at around €40-50 for very simple ones, but high craftsmanship pieces easily exceed €5,000 in the most refined artisan shops.
Is it free to visit the presepe or do you have to purchase tickets?
Here are up-to-date details for booking tickets and visiting the preluded sites linked to the Naples presepe tradition:
Via San Gregorio Armeno: This famous artisan street is open year-round, with shops typically from 9:30 a.m. to around 6:30 p.m.. No entrance fee is required.
Certosa e Museo di San Martino (which features a historic presepe collection): Adult tickets are about €6.00, with reduced rates around €2.00. For online booking and skip-the-line access to the Certosa & Museum, you can reserve via services from around €7 per person.
While the Neapolitan presepe is a traditional thing to appreciate in Naples, this vibrant city offers conceals quite a a few unexpected surprises as well. Check out our list of the most unusual things to see in Naples. Or, if you’re visiting Naples, why not make your Italian Christmas adventure even more magical with a quick trip to Rome?
Rome is only about an hour by high-speed train, making it the perfect festive day trip or overnight getaway. Explore Rome’s dazzling Christmas markets, twinkling lights in Piazza Navona, and the breathtaking Vatican Christmas tree—all wrapped in centuries of history and beauty. To make the most of your time, join one of our Walks of Italy guided tours in Rome, including Skip-the-Line Vatican Tours, Colosseum experiences, and day trips beyond the city.